I think it was Samuel Billaud who put me on to Cyril Gautheron, saying that if you like a chiselled mineral style of Chablis, then Cyril is the man to go to. I did, and I found a great deal to like. Cyril joined his father Alain at the family domaine in Fleys in 1997. He is a bundle of energy, full of theories, questioning received wisdom. The domaine now covers 28ha, is picked partly by hand (most crus and the old vine Chablis) and the wines are made in a mix of stainless steel and barrel, along with a cement egg since 2020. The grands crus are negociant wines, vinified in 500 litre wood barrels. The wines are bottled with DIAM closures

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