In the Presence of Genius – Domaine Hubert Lamy: St-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard A dual vertical of the regular and Haute Densité bottlings, 2006-2019. We need to be sparing with the word genius. Certainly, if genius is defined by the ‘infinite capacity for taking pains’, Olivier Lamy qualifies without a shadow of doubt….