Established in his grandfather’s cellar in Chassagne-Montrachet, Thomas Morey looks after 13 hectares of vines comprising 57 plots in seven communes: Maranges, Santenay, Chassagne, Puligny, St- Aubin (where his wife comes from) Pommard and Beaune. He is perhaps less well known internationally than his quality deserves, which might be because he sells more in Japan, Germany and Scandinavia than he does in Anglo-Saxon markets. The vineyards will be certified organic from 2023.

Thomas is looking to make a racy, fine-boned style of wine rather than the rounder, ampler bottlings of his father and brother. Discretion, precision and tension are words which frequently crop up in my tasting notes of his wines. The style has been further refined with longer maturation for the better cuvees which are no longer bottled before the next harvest, and a reduction in the new oak content which was never particularly high. Now Thomas uses a maximum of 15% for any wine and none on the very small cuvees.

There is an excellent range of 1ers crus to choose from but do not ignore the straight Chassagne which come from six plots in the northern, white wine, sector of the village. Among the crus, if you cannot find the subtle, almost ethereal Bâtard-Montrachet or the rare and beautifully crafted Dent de Chien and Vide-bourse, look out for Les Baudines which is very representative of Thomas Morey’s fine-boned style.

White Wines

Ha
Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 0.20
Chassagne 1er Cru Baudines 0.50
Chassagne 1er Cru Embrazées 0.60
Chassagne 1er Cru Morgeot 0.72
Chassagne 1er Cru Vide Bourse 0.19
Chassagne 1er Cru Dents de Chien 0.07
Chassagne 1er Cru Clos St-Jean 0.50
Chassagne 1er Cru Chenevottes 0.48
Puligny 1er Cru La Truffière 0.25
Beaune 1er Cru Grèves 0.25
St-Aubin 1er Cru Les Castets 0.25
St-Aubin 1er Cru Les Combes 0.16
St-Aubin 1er Cru Le Puits 0.21
St-Aubin 0.32

Red Wines

Pommard 1er Cru Chanlins
Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves 0.40
Maranges 1er Cru La Fussière 0.40
Santenay 1er Cru Passetemps 0.33
Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau 0.40
Chassagne 1er Cru Clos St-Jean 0.55
Chassagne-Montrachet 0.75
St-Aubin 0.35
Santenay 0.75
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