Mostly Moulin-à-Vent Once upon a time Moulin-à-Vent was the nec plus ultra of the Beaujolais appellations, making the richest, deepest, sturdiest wines of the region. Then, beginning in the 1980s, Fleurie took the lead in international markets for its opposite qualities of perfume and accessibility. Now equilibrium has been re-established with both appreciated. Most of…